Voyages of the Cornucopia
This is a visual and textual log of the our 1973 Finnsailor 35 purchased on June 29, 2006. We would like to share this with our friends and others who are interested in our sailing experiences and live aboard lifestyle.Sunday, August 27, 2006
Saturday, August 26, 2006
The Voyage Begins
After searching almost a year for a boat that would suit our lifestyle, Bob and I found "Cornucopia" a 1973 Finnsailor 35. We took possession on June 29, and sailed her from Piers Point in Boston to the Winthrop Yacht Basin where we have a mooring.June 29 - July 13, we spent in Winthrop learning the boats systems and provisioning her for our sail home to Bridgeport, CT. During that time we discovered that the mooring needed upgrading with a new mushroom and larger chain to accomodate the heavier, longer Cornucopia.
Cornucopia was built in Turko, Finnland, for the rough North Sea. She has a 75 hp Perkins engine that will push us through most seas. No matter what the conditions, we should be able to make headway. Previous owners have modified her to create a more spacious galley. The addition of the canvas enclosure makes her comfortable for all seasons and weather.
Transport to Bridgeport
Bob created this map to show our journey from Winthrop to Bridgeport. We had already sailed this route in our Coronado 25, April 15-22. This transport took 4 days to complete or half the time of the first Wintrop-Bridgeport experience.
July 13 -- Winthrop to Wings Neck
John the broker who sold us Cornucopia mentioned that people would probably have many questions about her because she is so unusual. However when we anchored at Wings Neck on the west side of the Cape Cod Canal, we had quite a different experience. A Canadian yacht circled us and then came close along side. The captain called out in a strongly accented voice to say, "Finnsailor! We know her. We're from there."
Wings neck was another first for me. After dinner I went on the foredeck to try out my new fishing rod. I caught a gorgeous flounder which Bob wrestled to the deck for me. Unfortunately I was caught up in fisherman's euphoria and failed to get a photo. You'll just have to believe this fish story.
July 14 Wings Neck to Newport
When we made the passage from Wings Neck to Newport in April, we were the only sailing vessel in sight. That should tell you something! We were the only ones crazy enough to risk the unpredictable April weather along the New England coast. In July the waters of Buzzards Bay are littered with every kind of boat imaginable. Newport was a frenzy. Powerboaters zoomed by leaving wakes in every direction. I think this is from ignorance. Surely no one would be so unthinking of others' safety as to leave a 6 to 10 foot wake capable of swamping canoes, kayaks, and smaller sailboats.
This was a day of rough seas building in the afternoon.
July 15 Newport to New London
During the middle of the afternoon, we saw gulls circling above jumping fish. I thought this was a perfect time to throw line out. Sure enough, a ten pound sea bass grabbed the bait. Again I was elated at the catch, and you'll just have to believe me.
This was another rough, long day. Bob as usual was on the helm. He is intent on his objectives. I find a sailing day longer than 6 hours wearing in the extreme. I implored him to stop at New London instead of continuing on a little farther to a mooring we had used in April. He reluctantly agreed, and after one attempt at anchoring in an area with poor holding ground, we picked up a mooring ball and spent a restful night.
July 16 New London to Bridgeport
The day was hot but nice as I steered Cornucopia into Bridgeport Harbor where we anchored just off of Tongue Point. Seeing a 35' yacht in this part of Bridgeport Harbor is most unusual. People on the shore were watching as Bob and I rowed to land in the inflatable. Our condo is only a couple of blocks from Tongue Point. Bob returned to the boat just in case the anchor didn't hold. I walked home to discover that the automatic security gate was in place and working, but I didn't have the code. Fortunately another condo owner was coming in from a bike ride and opened the gate. He had seen Bob and me come to shore and commented we reminded him of the Bahamas where yachties are a common site. I figure he must have an overactive imagination to draw any comparison between Bridgeport and the Bahamas.
After a long, long shower, I prepared dinner to take back to the boat. Just before leaving the condo, I gave Bob a call on the cell phone, so he would be on shore when I got there. We enjoyed our homemade spaghetti sauce and pasta. The Port Jefferson Ferry coming and going was the only interruption to an otherwise quiet night under anchor. For more information on Tongue Point and Bridgeport, click on the following link
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.lighthouse.cc/tonguepoint/TONGPC1.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.lighthouse.cc/tonguepoint/pc1.html&h=262&w=400&sz=30&hl=en&start=9&tbnid=tnrNGfoQdaP30M:&tbnh=81&tbnw=124&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dtongue%2Bpoint%2B%26svnum%3D10%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official_s%26sa%3DG
July 17 Tongue Point to Ryan's Marina
A bascule bridge and I-95 bridge span Yellow Mill Channel where Ryan's is located. I had already alerted Joe Ryan that we would be coming in at low water in the morning. I had also made an appointment with the bridgetender for an opening. This must be the only place in the U.S. where an appointment 24 hours in advance is required for a bridge opening. All was ready, we were lined up, and the bridge didn't open. Bob called on the radio while I punched in numbers on the cell phone, trying to get the bridge operator's attention. Cornucopia isn't very maneuverable and doesn't hold still, wanting to turn off the wind. One prop makes turning much more difficult than for dual prop boats. Finally the bridge opened, and we were through. Then the I-95 bridge loomed ahead. It has a 39' clearance. The top of the mast is 39' from the water. Since we were at low tide, we knew we were safe to go under. Still this all makes me very anxious, and I hold my breath and close my eyes until the bridge is completely behind us. Joe is on the dock and ready to catch the line. Once the fenders are out and the lines secured I feel the adrenalin subside and begin the routine after-docking tasks. For us number one job is making coffee. Second is collecting dirty laundry and preparing to go ashore. Bob shuts down all the mechanical systems and double checks the lines and adds a springer.
In retrospect the transport was simple. I just don't like pushing to make distance, preferring leisurely days. Motoring also is annoying to me. I don't care for the noise, and I always want to put the sails up.
A friend once told me that men love the physics and engineering of sailing and women love the ambiance and mood. I think she is right. I also think that sailing is flying with a cloth wing rotated 90 degrees. What I do know is that for successful living aboard, everyone must be able to do every job. I enjoy plotting and holding a course. I enjoy finding our location on a chart. I enjoy having the comforts of home and yet having a different view each day. When I return to land, I am always overwhelmed by the sensory input of the city. Most of this is negative...noise and smells and frantic activity. Live aboard life is minimalist, paring away the useless and the frivolous. The basics for health and happiness are there. A person only has to focus to realize this.
Hudson River Adventure or Lake Champlain and Back
Liberty Park Marina, Jersey City, N.J
Bob and George at Lock 12 Marina
Osprey Nest on Lake Champlain
Our anchorages and stops
Water lily harvesters after Lock 12 at the beginning of Lake Champlain
Monday, August 1, 2006
New windshields installed in pilot house
Tuesday, August 1
Bridgeport to Glen Cove, NY
The appointed time for the bascule bridge to open was 10:45, dead low tide. That morning Bob stayed on board, taking care of last minute departure details while I went to Home Depot to refill our spare propane cylinder and pick up a few items at the grocery. On the way back to the marina, I had a flat tire. If I didn't get back in time for the bridge opening, we would have to postpone departure until the next day. I just wasn't in the mood to delay anymore. I called the marina and asked Joe to have Bob get in touch with me. We decided that he would take the boat through if I wasn't able to get back in time. Then he would pick me up on the shore as he had the night we arrived in Bridgeport. Fortunately we didn't have to use that plan. I arrived in ample time, and Joe Ryan said he would have taken me out to meet Bob on the other side of the bridge if all else failed. Moral of this story: Have at least 2 back up plans.
We arrived at Glen Cove, New York, in the early afternoon and anchored there for the night to allow us to catch the tide through Hell Gate the next morning. This part of Long Island appears to be a popular fishing area with several people casting lines from the shore and small powerboats moving around to locate a good spot.
Wednesday, August 2
Glen Cove, NY to Yonkers Boat Ramp
What a trip!! We negotiated all the bridges and Hell Gate in what seems in retrospect a blur of boats and skyscrapers! I had seen Manhattan and the Battery, the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island from land and tour boats, but there is nothing quite like the experience of sailing on your own near these man-made wonders. Bob made sure I got close enough to the Statue of Liberty to take pictures for my grandsons Alex and Ethan. I didn't realize until the photo session was done that he had taken us in the restricted area. No one bothered us. I don't think we meet any profile yet developed by Homeland Security. I will post photos separately.
Thursday, August 3
Yonkers to Hyde Park
This day took the most spectacular views on the Hudson. Bear Mountain, Anthony's Nose and Westpoint. Westpoint is imposing in its immense grayness. It reminds me of Europe's great castles. To know the history of Westpoint is to know the military history of the United States. If you can only travel a few miles along the Hudson, these few between Yonkers and Hyde Park would be the ones to see.
We picked up a free mooring ball behind the red buoys marking the private anchorage. This was never mentioned in either edition of Cruising Guide to New England. It is one of the best kept secrets on the Hudson because it is free and has easy access to Hyde Park with its historic sites and Culinary Institute of America.
Friday, August 4
Hyde Park
Hyde Park was the home of Franklin Roosevelt. He and and his wife Eleanor are buried there in a rose garden. His presidential library is also there. Having seen The Little White House at Warm Springs, GA, I was very interested in visiting this house. My impression is one of conservative wealth. By that I mean the home and grounds, while elegant, are modest in contrast to other estates in the area. This was underlined by comparing the Roosevelt home to Frederick Vanderbilt's mansion also located in Hyde Park. These links will give you more information on the mansions and their owners.
http:///www.hydeparkny.us/AboutHydePark/roosevelt.shtml
http://www.cr.nps.gov/history/online_books/hh/32/hh32toc.htm
Saturday, August 5
Hyde Park to Shady Harbor Marina, New Baltimore, NY
This was another day I enjoyed for its beautiful weather as well as its brevity. No long days voyage into night, we docked at the marina in the early afternoon after a brief struggle against the current. The cruiser docked next to us belonged to a couple who were there from the Albany Yacht Club whose floats had been destroyed in the early spring floods. The 90 foot "Sir Martin II" owned and skippered by an eccentric Texan docked amid a bevy of curious spectators, including Bob and me. This behemoth eased sideways to its berth with the aid of bowthrusters, an engineer, and two deck hands, not to mention the expert helmsmanship of the captain/owner. We spent an uneventful evening with only moderate waking from passing powerboats.
Sunday, August 6
New Baltimore to Castleton-on-Hudson
We purchased diesel but didn't go to the fuel dock as it was behind the floats and would have required a huge struggle to get in and out with all the powerboats docked before and after the section reserved for fueling. Bob loaded the jerry cans in the inflatable, and we refueled from them. We always leave 10 gallons in reserve in cans. This gives me the peace of mind that we have 10 hours worth of fuel set by. Two things make me nervous: low fuel and low fresh water. After the refuel we proceeded to Castleton on Hudson, only a few nautical miles upstream. We demasted here, and Bob's description is pretty much the way it was. While at Castleton we met a Canadian couple Chris and Catherine who were sailing their newly purchased sloop from Peekskill to Quebec. They were in "transport mode," and were really pushing to return to Montreal.
Monday, August 7
Castleton-on-Hudson to Supermarket Dock
What Bob doesn't say in his account of our mythic journey through the Federal Lock is that we were just wrung out from the anxiety. The thought of negotiating another lock that day would have brought me to tears. As it was, we had the supermarket dock all to ourselves, except for some kids and a lot of geese and ducks. A small shopping center is just up the not so steep hill from the dock. We replenished our supply of drinks, ice, and snacks and enjoyed a peaceful afternoon of naps and relaxation.
Tuesday, August 8
Supermarket Dock to wall just north of Lock 9
Thank goodness grabbing poles was no long a necessity because lines are hung every few feet along both walls. Snatching them with the hook or hand is so much easier than struggling to get a line behind a pipe. So, Lock 1 and 2 went by without much ado. Lock 3 was another story. The current rip going into the lock had Bob pushing the engine a little faster than he wanted. Then the wind in the lock pushed the bow away from the west wall before I could secure us. We ended up doing a 180 degree turn and grabbing lines on the east wall. The fact that there were no other boats in the lock was a blessing. Until Lock 8 we were being raised. After that we were being lowered to the level of Lake Champlain. My assessment is catching ropes to go up is easier than catching ropes to go down. We met up with Chris and Catherine in the locks and continued on through lock 9. After lock 8 we had noticed that the drive shaft packing was leaking. Since it was getting dark, the lockmaster suggested that we tie up to the west wall just beyond the south entrance to the lock to assess our problem and take care of repairs. Catherine and Chris joined us for dinner, supplying the adult beverages and we contributed the main course, spaghetti and meatballs--homemade of course. The pleasant congeniality was a perfect way to wind down from a long day.
Wednesday-Thursday, August 9-10
Lock 9 tie up to Monitor Bay near Crown Point, NY The last two locks were not difficult since we were now old pros with a routine. Finally were were out of Lock 12 and into Lake Champlain. This end of the lake is frog heaven filled with lily pads. So filled with lily pads that the channel has to be cleared. Also there are all kinds of birds, blue heron and osprey in particular are evident. We arrived at Monitor Bay, so called because this is where the ore to build the Civil War ironclad "Monitor" was loaded. Here also we found a dock. A short walk to town allowed me to shop at a real bakery and butcher shop. The baker was from a French family, and his bread reminded me of Parisian baguettes.
Friday August 11
Monitor B
ay to Point Bay Marina, Charlotte, VT This was another not so long day. We passed by the Samuel Champlain monument and under the Crown Point Bridge. Since demasting we no longer give a second thought to bridges. That's good, but to tell the truth, I wished we could run up the sails. Point Bay Marina was another pleasant surprise because it had all the amenities at a very reasonable price. $10 for a mooring ball and only $3.00/ gal for diesel. We didn't need much, but decided to top off with prices that good. We filled up our fresh water tank,too. The marina also has very nice facilities for transients where I got the first long, hot shower since Shady Harbor Marina at New Baltimore.
Saturday, August 12
Point Bay Marina to Burlington, VT
Burlington is the most user friendly town from the boating perspective that we visited. Not only is it set up for transient vessels, it is also a haven for sailboats. Sailboats outnumber powerboats at least 10 to 1. The breakwater is shaped like a "W" and just behind it is a field of mooring balls priced at $.50 a foot of boat length. Now you can't beat that! A short row into the public dock gives access to downtown Burlington and hundreds of small shops and restaurants. This is a college town and has the pub on every corner look so common to cities with large universities. We bought groceries and the required wine and beer. Bob also took a 4 mile hike to purchase a new antenna. Demasting had taken down our antenna, and we needed a deck or stanchion mounted replacement. Up to this point we were relying on cell phone to contact lockmasters and marinas to let them know we were approaching and that we could receive over our radio but could not transmit. On his return from shopping, Bob met another Canadian couple, George and Laura, who were headed south through the Champlain Canal after already negotiating the Chambley lock system. They told stories of locking through with huge commercial vessels, and to think I had been nervous about grabbing a line in an empty lock.
Sunday, August 13
Begin return trip Burlington, VT, to Monitor Bay
George and Laura left ahead of us but George wanted to sail to the waypoint programmed into his GPS before heading south again. We just headed south. Our Lowrance which came with Cornucopia had been problematic at best. We had not used it beyond seeing if we were holding a straight course. River and lake navigation are a bit more forgiving than ocean navigation where missing a mark can put you miles off course and a location by GPS can really put your mind at ease when that point just doesnt' appear on the horizon or there is low visibilty. We anchored again at Monitor Bay and Laura and George anchored just off our port bow. We enjoyed a congenial pot luck dinner after a long day of boating.
Monday, August 14
Monitor Bay to Lock 12 Marina, White Hall, NY
In the morning I went ashore to do laundry and a bit of shopping. That delayed our start until late morning. However the boating was relaxing this day because we were covering known territory, and George and Laura we ahead of us through "Kermit the Frog Land" as Bob had named the lily pad infested portion of Lake Champlain. When we got to Whitehall, we decided to stay at the Lock 12 Marina instead of anchoring. I was all for that! The idea of hot showers always gets my attention. George and Laura invited us to dinner at Finch & Chubb's a gourmet restaurant above the marina office. The meal and conversation were excellent, and we continued our soiree outside.
Tuesday, August 15
Lock 12 Marina to Mechanicville
George and Bob had discussed how we should lock through since both boats would be together. We chose the west side because that is our starboard and working side. Of course the best laid plans never work. Lock 12 only fills from one side and all vessels need to tie on the east wall to avoid being pushed about in the turbulents as the lock fills. This worked out fine on lock 12. Lock 11 was a struggle because both ended up on the west wall for some reason and I was unable to grab a line fast enough. "Quick Step," George and Laura's catboat, is 50' long when the mast is lying bow to stern. I could just see that mast crashing into our new pilothouse windshields. Somehow or other we all got arranged in the lock without too much fuss, even if I did end up on the shore at one point while trying to grab a line. When we got to the Mechaniville wall, I realized that the cleats were at a higher level that the boat. This was yet another new experience. By now I was accustomed to jump down (more or less gracefully) to dock. I had figured out my strategy, but didn't get to test it because a nice man walking by had me toss the line to him. Bob immediately took care of the stern. Then he hurried to help "Quick Step" dock since they were right behind us. When both boats were squared away, we all had a beer. The guys decided to hike to town while Laura and I prepared dinner. This was our last evening with George and Laura, and it passed all too quickly. Mechnicville is another haven for boaters. The town docking wall has shore power, water, and pumpout facilities at no charge, encouraging boaters to stop and perhaps spend some money at the local businesses.
Thursday, August 17
Mechanicsville to Coxsackie Island
We finished out the locks without too much fuss. Except for the Federal Lock. We were in the lock with a powerboat and two canoes. We were the last to leave. The canoers quickly rowed to the side of the channel to get out of everyone's way. The powerboat however was moving so slowly that we would not have had any steering if we had stayed behind it. We sorted all that out and went on our way south. I'm glad we now have the experience of the locking. I don't particularly care to do negotiate another lock . . . ever. But then again . . . if I have to, I will. Coxsackie Island had was a good anchorage if you don't count being rocked by the wakes of passing recreational and commercial boats.
Friday, August 18
Coxsackie Island to Saugerties Marina.
This was a short day because the waves were building on the Hudson until you would have thought we were in the open sea. I finally had enough of the pounding and insisted that we put in at Saugerties Marina. While we were there, we took a tour of the town. That was another unexpected pleasure. Saugerties is very quaint with many small boutiques and Mom and Pop stores. We stopped for an ice cream at Krause's candy store. That was a nice treat after walking up and down hill for a couple of miles. The evening was uneventful.
Saturday, August 19
Saugerties Marina to Garrison, NY
Again we traveled through the most beautiful part of the Hudson. As the sun was beginning to set, we tried grabbing a mooring ball at Westpoint, but decided to anchor on the other side of the river near the Garrison Yacht Club.
Sunday, August 20
Garrison to Dobbs Ferry
It's here that we put in our reserve diesel. The boating wasn't difficult ,but the night was rough because of high winds. Since we were under anchor, Bob stayed on deck on anchor watch. I went below but decided that it was rougher and noiser there than on deck. When thing seemed to calm down a little, I went below again but didn't sleep well. I don't think Bob slept at all, and we took off the next morning a bit ragged around the edges.
Monday, August 21
Dobbs Ferry to Liberty Point Marina, Jersey City, NJ
Since we had put in the reserve fuel at Garrison we were hunting a fuel dock as we traveled down the Hudson. Boaters should be aware that there are NO fuel docks on the New York side of the Hudson below the Tappan Zee Bridge. We finally found the Liberty Park Marina. I loved it. It reminded me of the Winthrop Yacht Basin in that it is so protected. We fueled up and then went to a slip. By this time Bob's docking skills were unsurpassed. I was ready to jump from the moving boat to the dock, but he figured things so perfectly, all I had to do was step down and tie off the dock line without having to hurry to stop the boat's forward momentum. That area of Jersey City has a neighborhood quality with many cafes and ethnic stores. We bought a bottle of wine and had dinner on the sidewalk at the Hardgrove Cafe, a Cuban restaurant.
Tuesday, August 22
Liberty Park Marina to Bridgeport
We left early and were caught in the morning commuter rush around the Battery. I know this area got its name for gun emplacements, but I think the name fits from the battering one takes getting around that end of Manhattan in a sailboat. We we hit by wakes from every kind of water vehicle known--taxis, ferries, tugs, hydrofoils, etc. But we had to keep the tide in mind because we were going back through Hell Gate. The timing was perfect! We were pulled through Hell Gate and entered Long Island Sound with the tide in our favor there also. We made record time getting to Bridgeport. I was at the helm through the long lead into the harbor. This time we weren't at the mercy of the capricious bridgetender because the mast was down. Joe was waiting for us on the dock to catch a line.
Thinking back, I believe we had another hero's journey. I am always impatient and excited to set out on a voyage, yet I am just as ready to see home again. This voyage of "Cornucopia" let us learn just what she can and can't do.
It also told us of many repairs and improvements we need to make before we set out next year to travel down the East coast to Georgia. I love the boat. She is very spacious and liveable. I particularly like the large cockpit area with the navigator's seat. Some of the problems are a lack of maneuverability and the tendancy to fall off course when heading into the wind.
I still have much to learn to reach competency. However I'm much more comfortable at the helm and with plotting a course. I am light years ahead of where I was this time last year. Now all I need to do is practice with the sails!!
Bob's Description of locking
What are the locks all about?
To travel north or west from Troy you need to enter the Federal Lock which pops up just after passing the Troy waterfront. First you pass under a modern lift bridge, and then the last of the highway bridges.
The fact you have reached this lock means you took your mast down long before reaching Albany, or you made an appointment at "Scrano's" located on the west shore, just after Green # 219 buoy and prior to the "Port of Albany Terminal Building." Otherwise you will never clear the RR-bridge (without notification) and the bridges spanning the canal after entering into either the Erie or Champlain canal systems.
Dunn Memorial Bridge 60 feet fixed
RR Bridge 26 feet Swing
Patroon Island Bridge 60 feet fixed
Troy Menand's Bridge 61 feet fixed
Congress Street Bridge 55 feet fixed
Unfortunately we stopped at the "Castleton-On-The-Hudson" marina which allowed us to use the old crane overhanging the front floats. The fee is $50.00 dollars, and all you get is the usage of their crane. Shady Harbor Marina no longer offers de-masting services, which may be temporary. The new owners may or may not provide these services once again.
At Castleton On The Hudson Marina the floats are perpendicular to the crane. Plus the entire river area here is constantly bombarded by wakes regardless that "NO WAKE" signs are posted on both the south and north ends of the marina. Don't count on any power-boaters pulling their throttles back while passing without leaving a wake. Keep a watchful eye and get your rigging down fast! If you do these, you might well get your mast down without any upsets or damages.
The Federal Lock at Troy looks intimidating when you first spot it and hear the loud spillway waters flowing over the dam. The locks monitor VHF Channel 13 and usually they will answer your call, provided they're not doing their walk between the gates. However, they never do respond to three-blasts of the horn.
Sailboats under motor move 5 to 6 knots. In retrospect, "The lock systems were built for flat-bottomed barges which means this is really no place for modern day sailboats with deep draft and limited speed. This is especially true for navigating a 35-foot motor-sailer through. We candidly explained to the lockmasters that we were on an oil tanker without the tugs.
Once under the lift bridge you will spot the Federal Lock. Stay far right, but don't get too close to Adam Island on your immediate right. It has submerged boulders on its northern-most side . Keep away from the dam currents,too. If the lock gates are not opened, there will be no "GREEN" light illuminated; therefore, slowly head toward the mooring wall.
The only thing you need to know about the locks is to stay clear of dams.
Follow all the buoys and posted marks; be prepared for wind gusts, generator eddie currents, and make sure you have sufficient lines and fenders on hand. other essentials are a heavy duty pair of gloves because the lower walls of these locks are very wet and slimy.
The Federal Lock is the biggest lock in the system even though the lift is only 14 feet. The higher lifts are found in Lock-3 Mechanicville (19.5 feet) and Lock-5 Schuylerville (19 feet). The total travel distance through the locks from Troy to Whitehall is 63 miles. The travel time is based on a speed of 10 mph. Therefore you can add 40% to all estimated times when you consider 5 knots is equal to 6 mph, the usual travel speed for sailboats. Inside the canal you should not have to tolerate any powerboat wakes. If you do, report them immediately on VHF Channel #13 which you're already monitoring.
No comments:
Post a Comment